Coorg, Karnataka · August 2026 · 3 days

Coorg in the rain

Three slow days, one homestay, a lot of coffee. Monsoon only from now on.

Misty coffee hills seen from a homestay veranda

Five and a half hours from Bangalore if you leave at six. We stayed on a working coffee estate — four rooms, three enormous meals a day, no television and almost no signal.

It rained for most of three days. I painted from the veranda twice, read most of a novel, and slept nine hours a night, which I have not done at home in a year.

Worth knowing

  • The last thirty kilometres take as long as the previous eighty.
  • Book the homestay by phone and ask what time dinner is.
  • Take shoes you’re willing to write off. Leeches on the walking trails are not a rumour.
  • Estate-roasted coffee is worth carrying a kilo home for.

I wrote the longer version of this up in the journal: Coorg in the rain.

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